Designers’ Creations, Indian Fashion Series 4

Fashion design is a form of art dedicated to the creation of clothing and other lifestyle accessories through the application of design aesthetics. Fashion designers conduct research on fashion trends and interpret them for their clientele. They attempt to design clothes that are functional as well as aesthetically appealing. They consider who is likely to wear the garment and the occasion on which it is to be worn while designing it. Clothes worn for everyday wear fall within a narrower range of styles whereas clothes worn for special occasions demand greater attention to detail and styling. Some garments are made specifically for an individual as in the case of ‘haute couture’ or bespoke tailoring.

Haute couture is high-end fashion that is constructed by hand from start to finish. Made from high-quality, expensive, often unusual fabric and sewn with extreme attention to detail and finished by the most experienced and capable sewers often using time consuming, hand-executed techniques. A haute couture garment is tailored exclusively for the wearer’s measurements and body stance. Considering the amount of time, money and skill needed to complete each look, haute couture garments are also described as having no price tag. In modern France, haute couture is a protected name that may not be used except by companies that meet certain well-defined standards.

Many designers prefer to specialize in one particular field of design rather than attempting to create it all when starting out. Specialties include bridal design, fabric design, costume design, accessory design etc. A bridal designer is a fashion professional who has a hand in designing and creating wedding dresses for brides to wear during their wedding. Fabric design also called textile design is a specialty in which the fashion professional will design, create and possibly see the materials that another fashion professional would then use for their creations. Costume designers design and create the costumes that one sees in movies and television. They have a huge role from film sets as it is their clothing design, which help an actor look like the character they are portraying. Accessory design is a specialty that designing belts, bags, gloves that are to be worn in addition to the clothes that a person wears. Shirts, glasses, purses and necklaces are examples of what an accessory designer would be working with on a daily basis.

Indian fashion has carved a niche for itself at the global stage. Indian fashion designers have made a mark in the world of fashion by showcasing their prowess and creative abilities. Some of the best Indian designers have lent their designs for the present series of Commemorative Postage Stamps on Indian Fashion. These designs and their designers are described as follows:-

1) Wendell Rodricks – India Emporia
Wendell Rodricks is an Indian fashion designer and author based in Goa. In 2014, the Government of India conferred upon him, the Padma Shri. He gave shape to the designer in the collection “India Emporia” he re-invented what was classic and draped them with this collection. Whites gives way to colour, cotton gives way to silk and khadi. Hand woven silks have been used to optimum effect. The artistry of the cotton growers and silk cultivators, the dyers who use inventive dyes and weaves are. They carry forward a grand legacy are the real stars of India Emporia.

2) Abu Jani Sandeep Khosla – Flared Sherwani
The duo is best known for their ability to infuse Indian craftsmanship and heritage with European tailored silhouette. Their signature style is to blend traditional aesthetics with modern design. Flared Sherwani collection is a unique meld. It uses the finest fabrics as a canvas, with the otherwise calm base exquisite embroideries and intricate embellishments to create what have been described as a modern masterpiece.

3) Manish Malhotra – Timeless
Manish Malhotra is an Indian model turned costume designer and stylist, widely known for his works in Bollywood, Telugu cinema, Tamil cinema, Hollywood, and television. In 1998, he ventured into modelling and runway fashion designing with his label, ‘Reverie-Manish Malhotra’. He was the first Filmfare awards for best costume designing for Rangeela film. His ‘Timeless’ collection is a collection with timeless chikankari weaving with hand embroidery pattern married to the drama of embellished lengths the label’s one of a kind interpretation of legacy with vogue gracefulness.

4) Rahul Mishra – Mystical Indian
A nondescript little village has been Rahul Mishra’s homeland, far away from the hustle bustle of the urban landscape. When the first drops of rain fall on the parched land, the fragrance spreads far and wide to bring in a harmonious sensation of flora and fauna. The hand-embroidered Peacock Lehenga in the Stamps is inspired by German biologist and artist Ernst Haeckel’s wondrous (Art forms of nature, 1899). Integrating traditional handwork techniques with delicate artworks of blossoming flora from the Indian monsoons, the journey transcends and takes us wandering down mystical garden.

5) Ashish Soni – Embellishment
Ashish Soni excelled in Indian fashion in many ways. In 1993, he became the first Indian to hold a solo show on the ramps of New York. He first designer to be invited to hold a runway show at Olympus fashion week, New York. Embellishment is known for his sharply refined and sophisticated minimalist aesthetics. His signature line has often characterized by extreme simplicity, flawless lines, immaculate cuts and a perfect finish. With design as his primary focus, embellishments are subsidiary and used with great care only to highlight form.

6) Ritu Kumar – Varanasi Weaves
Padma Shri awardee and well-known textile revivalist Ritu Kumar took India’s rich textiles and handlooms a notch higher when she showcased her Varanasi Weaves taking back the beauty of motifs like Badami, Kyari, Shikarghar and Guldavari. The designer showcased glittering gold and silver royal textiles. Ritu Kumar’s tribute to honour weavers from Banaras is supported by the Ministry of Textiles, GoI to save the handloom weaving in the city.

7) Anita Dongre – Ambika Jacket
Anita Dongre is an Indian fashion designer and is the founder of House of Anita Dongre, an Indian fashion house. She was born and raised in Mumbai. She designs apparel line under four distinct brands, which are AND, Global Desi, Anita Dongre and Anita Dongre Grassroot. Ambika Jacket is a sustainable and eco-conscious design paying tribute to the handcrafted traditions of India.

8) Rohit Bal – Classic Jabayiya
Rohit Bal is a fashion designer from New Delhi, India. He was born in Srinagar. He was awarded with IFA Designer of the Year in 2001 and 2004. Classic Jabayiya is a culmination of Bal’s thoughts, inspirations, fantasies, and dreams. The collection is homage to Persia’s rich crafts and traditions. It uses Zardozi and threadwork, depicting images of wildlife, birds and flowers. Persian art.

In the Stamps 2023, Ritu Beri chose khadi as a fabric to launch her brand. It symbolizes India’s culture with as she had stated – “Khadi to me is more than just a fabric, it is a way of life.” She paid homage to India’s freedom movement by placing emphasis on khadi. The collection, as expressed by Mahatma Gandhi, is also used as a means to empower rural India, especially women. The base of khadi is spun and woven with utmost dedication and love.