Indipex Asiana 2000 – Gems and Jewellery

A 5000-Year-Old Legacy

India has been a global center for jewellery making since as early as 3000 BC. The ancient Indus Valley Civilization cities such as Harappa, Mohenjo-daro, Lothal, and Kalibangan were major hubs of jewellery production. Precious and semi-precious stones like lapis lazuli, turquoise, coral, carnelian, and jasper were imported, crafted into exquisite ornaments, and exported across maritime trade routes.

The first stamp in the series highlights a Bead Necklace (c. 2500 BC) from the Indus Valley, showcasing early craftsmanship.

Ancient Texts and Classification of Jewellery

Indian knowledge of gemology, known as Ratnashastra, is documented in classical texts such as the Ashtadhyayi by Panini, Arthashastra by Kautilya, and Natyashastra by Bharata Muni.

The Natyashastra classifies ornaments into four categories:

• Avedhya – ornaments worn by piercing (e.g., earrings or kundala)
• Bandhaniya – tied ornaments (e.g., girdles and armbands)
• Praksepya – worn by slipping on (e.g., anklets or nupura)
• Aropya – worn around the body (e.g., necklaces or hara)

Early Craftsmanship and Techniques

Terracotta figures from the Shunga Dynasty (c. 187–73 BC), discovered at sites like Chandraketugarh, reveal advanced jewellery-making techniques. These include goldsmithing, repoussé, granulation, filigree work, and bezel settings.

The second stamp in the series features a Gold Necklace (c. 1st century AD) from Taxila, representing intricate craftsmanship.

By the 1st century AD, India had become a major supplier of diamonds and precious gems worldwide. The famous Ajanta Caves murals further depict the extensive use of pearls and finely crafted jewellery.

Mughal Influence and Navaratna Tradition

During the Mughal Empire, jewellery design evolved with the introduction of meenakari (enamelling), blending gemstones, enamel, and precious metals. Popular ornaments included sarpech (turban ornament), rings, jeweled daggers, kalgi, and tikka.

Jewellery was also associated with spiritual beliefs. The concept of Navaratna (nine gems) symbolized the connection between humans, planets, and deities. These ornaments typically included ruby, pearl, coral, emerald, topaz, diamond, sapphire, zircon, and cat’s eye.

The series includes a Navaratna Necklace (18th century AD), reflecting this rich tradition.

Cultural Significance of Jewellery in India

Jewellery has always played a vital role in Indian culture, especially in rituals and ceremonies. For example, the ‘Tali’ (19th century AD) from South India represents a sacred marriage necklace, similar to the mangalsutra, tied during wedding ceremonies.

Traditional ornaments include:

• Hair and forehead jewellery
• Nose rings (nath)
• Earrings like jhumka, koppu, and thantatti

Jewellery also served as a medium to depict mythology and religious symbolism.

The final stamp in the series showcases a ‘Kanthla’ Necklace (18th century AD) from Rajasthan, representing temple jewellery.

Indepex–Asiana 2000 Stamp Series

To celebrate India’s rich heritage in jewellery, the India Post issued Miniature sheet consisting of a four commemorative stamps during the Indepex Asiana 2000, marking the 50th anniversary of the Republic of India and the new millennium.

The stamp series includes:

1. Bead Necklace (Indus Valley, 2500 BC)
2. Gold Necklace (Taxila, 1st century AD)
3. Navaratna Necklace (18th century)
4. ‘Tali’ – Bridal Necklace (South India, 19th century)